• Alessandra Fanizzi


English text only / Article written for Rebel Femme Online Magazine

March definitely started in the best way: Haider Ackermann presented his Fall/Winter 2019/20 collection at Paris Fashion Week.

The Colombian-born French designer, who founded his own label in 200, is known for his play of contrasts, sartorial excellence, fabric manipulation, and conceptual strong aesthetic, contemporary simplicity.

As powerfully simple was the set design for his latest collection, the Chaillot Théâtre National de la Danse, transformed into a red hot location.

On the notes of “Je t’aime…moi non plus” by Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg and sharp music, women and men showed us the bold looks on one runway.

It was all about rigour, (relaxed) seriousness, fluidity, blurring interchangeable boundaries, new aesthetic codes for her and for him.

“It’s not about unisex, it's about borrowing”, in the words of Haider Ackermann.

Same fabrics were used for men and women, such as wool, silk, cotton, playing with contemporary patterns, jacquards, chevron, pinstripes, abstract graphic elements, modern checks and polka dots, elegantly blended together.

Bold looks unveiled on stage, showing fitted and semi-fitted pants, T-shirts, knitted sweaters adorned with striped gloves, bolero jackets, ankle-length coats, with a display of structured shoulders, fitted and raglan sleeves, draping, fabric manipulation and modern swirled pattern making applied on blouses.

Interchangeability was also bound to serious mandarin and round collars, male and female jacket and pant opening -left over right and vice-versa-, and leather boots, creating a feeling of a discreet yet strong connection between him and her clothing items, an (in)visible lesson on romance.

We absolutely embraced also the chromatic appeal of the collection: captivating, pure (hot) red, black, white, hints of grey, camel and gold, to sensually whisper a sense of strength, minimal sharp beauty, empowerment.

Powerful values (and colours) we live by and we love to share at Rebel Femme Magazine.

Photos provided by: NOWFASHION

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© 2021 Alessandra Fanizzi / La riproduzione senza autorizzazione di ogni immagine e contenuto su questo sito è proibita.